The Gastro Pub

Crow Bar
2325 E Coast Hwy
Corona Del Mar, CA 92625
http://www.thecrowbarcdm.com/

By now you have probably heard of one of these increasingly popular new facets of the culinary world, perhaps you have even eaten at one. For those of you still in the dark, what is a Gastro Pub? Think Chelsea meets Chelsea, or ‘ello meets hello. With a heavy emphasis on beer, generally revolving around a strong focus on microbrews, and a pursuit to pair beer with food ala the classical wine/food duo, these establishments characterize a new trend toward marrying the neighborhood watering hole with a trendy, food forward restaurant.

So how does Crow Bar fare in its quest to fit into this emerging genre? Located on the Pacific Coast Highway in Newport Beach, it doesn’t exactly seem at home; the typical urban setting traded for a more suburban beach town environment. Once you walk in however, you could just as easily be in the Village. With a largely open space occupied predominantly by large communal tables, the atmosphere immediately conjures up feelings of a local pub accented by a much more chic clientele. One look at the menu and any lingering doubts are quickly driven from the mind. With an eclectic mix of small plates and entrees, it’s hard to decide where to start. When in these situations, I always fall back on my guiding principles; when in doubt, order it all. Starting with a Levitation Ale and several small plates including; a Spanish cured meat plate, accompanying cheese plate, grilled dates stuffed with blue cheese, and Scotch eggs, I clearly wasted no time diving in. Following this opening melee, I followed up with a side of duck fat fries, onion rings, and pumpkin bisque. At this point more research was clearly needed, so I finished with the Crow Burger, Pork Schnitzel, and Meatball sliders, all of which were accompanied by a Pliny the Elder ale.

What could be gleaned from this clear example of grotesque consumption? Of all the dishes, three stood out above the rest; Scotch Eggs, Duck Fat Fries, and the Crow Burger. First, I’m sure you are wondering with vexed expression what a Scotch Egg could possibly be, a fried hard boiled quail egg of course! Always excited by a new and inventive dish, I was very pleased to see this unusual dish on the menu. Paired with spicy brown mustard this dish hit the spot for a new and tasty flavor. Next were the Duck Fat Fries, oh the fries… First, let me say that I love crispy fries. In fact, if my fries aren’t crispy take them back, sink them in that oil and when you think they're done, leave them another five minutes before serving. That being said, these fries were excellent. The rich duck fat infused the fries with a savory flavor of pure indulgence while browning them into crispy sticks of goodness, decadently amazing! Finally, the Crow Burger. This dish is one of Crow Bar’s more popular and “signature” dishes and couldn’t/shouldn’t be passed up. Set atop a ciabatta, topped with both tallegio and gorgonzola, and finished with roasted tomato marmalade, this burger was a gastronomic delight. The ciabatta added chewy texture while the tallegio/gorgonzola/marmalade combo worked to create a savory/sweet flavor sensation that elevated the simple backyard staple to a complex and exciting experience.

Aside from these three highlights, the rest of the meal suffered from lack of focus and execution. The Schnitzel was dry and over cooked, while the meat and cheese dishes could have easily been served in any one of thousands of restaurants, or homes for that matter, around the country. The daring ventures into the unknown exemplified in the burger and scotch eggs was unfortunately tempered by these missteps. That being said, the meal overall was an enjoyable experience and I would definitely recommend this Gastro Pub to anyone looking for an out of the ordinary dining experience after a day of shopping or beach going.