The Gastro Pub Redux

Holeman and Finch
2277 Peachtree Road
Suite B
Atlanta, GA 30309
www.holeman-finch.com

If you have been following this blog, you know that I started with a review of a gastro pub in Southern California. Hopefully most, if not all of you, have had the chance to experience a gastro pub in your area. Assuming that by reading this blog you are a fan of food, a good gastro pub provides a food centric experience that pushes the boundaries of tradition and is sure to ignite your senses and appeal to the very being of your “foodieness”. Such was the experience at Holeman and Finch in Atlanta, Georgia.

Located on the northern cusp of the trendy midtown district, Holeman and Finch is the product of the collaboration of James Beard Nominated Best Chef Linton Hopkins and several partners. Set back from the street in a multi-use office building, the most immediately striking features were the floor to ceiling glass cellars housing various charcuterie meats and wines. Moving further into the restaurant, I was immediately struck by the size… small (think typical New York bar or pub). Though tight, the space maintains a highly functional atmosphere, despite catching the occasional hip or elbow. The décor is rustic meets modern. Warm earth tones and dark stained plank floors abut a pounded sheet metal bar and trendy aluminum chairs. Lighting is courtesy of retro styled light bulbs featuring oversized filaments ala 1930’s. Overall the décor serves as a good juxtaposition for the food, setting the tone for the artful interpretation that will greet the diner with every dish.

Quickly perusing the cocktail menu, I decided to trust the establishment and order a Bartender’s choice… I was not disappointed. Being a full fledged groupie of the ever expanding Mixology movement, I was delighted at the arrival of my drink; a concoction of rye whisky, Antica Formula, Angestore Bitters and Averna. Smooth and mouth coating, with hints of dark wood and subtle vanilla and a whisp of sweetness, the drink was a challenging, yet rewarding, beginning to my meal. After indulging in several sips of my libation, I moved my attention to the main attraction and felt my heart skip a beat. Separated into several sections, the menu sports themes such as Plates, Farm, Sweets, and... PARTS!!!! Constantly garnering quips and remarks from my friends for ordering the weirdest things on any menu, I was immediately drawn to the section reflecting offal from various farm animals…

“We’ll take one of everything from this section of the menu.” And so began our meal.

In addition to the offal, we ordered fried oysters, Atlantic sardines, and a watermelon salad. It was these dishes that arrived first. Battered in cornmeal and set atop a slightly overpowering mustard remoulade, the oysters were succulent and soft but otherwise unremarkable. One of those dishes that if you have had once in the south, you’ve had a million times. The sardines were lightly fried and paired with a lemon-garlic aioli. Light and fluffy, the sardines had a perfectly fishy flavor that was surprisingly subtle and paired splendidly with the slight sweetness of the aioli. Word of warning to those thinking they will try sardines the next time they see them on a menu: Bones, lots and lots of tiny bones. Next was the watermelon salad. This plate was an incredible display of bright ruby red, tangerine orange, and golden yellow. Tossed in lime juice and topped with clabbered cream, the salad was a plate of layered flavors with the sweetness of the watermelon, tartness of the lime, and soothing richness of the cream playing off one another with surprising complexity.

Next up was a trio of offal including veal sweetbreads, veal brain, and pork belly. With more and more chefs trying their hand at sweetbreads, I find myself greeted by these curious items with more frequency in my culinary adventures. The problem with the commercialization of an item such as sweetbreads is that chefs typically tend to bastardize their unique rustic flavor for a more neutral tone that is more easily accepted by the masses. Not so at Holeman and Finch. The sweetbreads we were presented with sat atop a bed of black eyed peas that were cooked to a perfectly al dente texture. The crunch of the black eyed peas served as the perfect complement to the soft and creamy texture of the sweetbreads. Additionally, the peas accentuated the flavor of the sweetbreads, which were reminiscent of a barn with very earthy animal notes and hints of hay. The brains were of a similar texture to the sweetbreads but with a slightly crunchy crust of breading on the outside. Served in a mini cast-iron skillet, the brains were a throwback to my childhood when my German born mother made the same dish. The pork belly was the last of the trio and was a beautiful dish. Fatty and succulent, with a wonderful crunchy layer of skin, the pork belly was served in a bun with chowchow in a somewhat Asian presentation (think Momofuku in NYC). Unfortunately, the chowchow, a relish made from mixed vegetables, was a bit overbearing and hid the full richness of the meat. They would be better off halving the chowchow and letting the meat shine through in its full and utterly wonderful glory.

After a quick intermission in which I finally sampled the bread, a crunchy crusted, chewy centered sourdough that continued the excellence I had experienced thus far, our final trio of dishes arrived; bacon and Johnny cake, marrow bones, and veal fries. Now I realize at this point a bacon and Johnny cake dish seems a bit out of place with the rest of the offal dishes, but this dish was definitely one of the stars of the evening. Focused around a thick cut piece of bacon set atop a cornmeal Johnny cake, the dish was finished off with a perfectly poached egg set atop the stack. Diners also have the option to add a piece of seared foie gras to the dish, which we did of course! Though it is completely unnecessary to go into further explanation than the list of ingredients I just gave, I will. The bacon had an incredibly smoky flavor that can only be the result either of truly smoking the meat or adding liquid smoke, either way it was delicious. The Johnny cake served as the perfect back drop for the bacon, soaking up the juices as they seeped out of the fatty meat. The egg, once broken, added a smooth and coating texture to the dish that served to elevate the level of indulgence to ethereal. The foie gras was a completely unnecessary indulgence, but heavenly all the same! Following this dish was a tough feat but the marrow bones were another source of surprise. Whereas this dish is usually served as a collection of bones cut crosswise to roughly and on to one and a half inches thick, Holeman and Finch’s version consisted of one bone cut lengthwise to expose a gloriously long strip of marrow. Soft and juicy with a salty crust, the marrow was a pleasurable dish but lacking in any remarkable component other than the presentation.

The final dish was by far the most memorable of the night. Presented with the somewhat innocuous name of ‘Veal Fries’, my first inclination that something was awry with the dish was the texture; firm yet lacking of any sinew or other elements fundamental to a meat. My confusion progressed until I finally flagged my waitress and presented my skepticism. With slight hesitation she professed that the dish was in fact veal testicles, so named to encourage otherwise leery diners to try them. Go ahead; read that last sentence again, yes you got it right the first time… I said testicles!! While I can imagine some of you might be fighting back a slight queasiness right now, I on the other hand was overjoyed. Having wanted for some time to try ‘Rocky Mountain Oysters’, I was finally able to fulfill my desire to sample this elusive dish! Having already made my way through the first dish by the time I learned the true ingredients, I ordered a second. As I mentioned above, the texture was smooth and firm, almost bready, similar to the brain. Served with a mixture of lemon, lime, and grapefruit, the flavor was a bit hidden by the citrus but the experience was so unique and enlightening that I simply could not find too much fault with the dish.

As you have probably surmised by now, I am a believer in Holeman and Finch. Always a fan of any establishment that seeks to elevate the dining experience, pushing people out of their comfort zone, and challenging their preconceived notions of food; Holeman and Finch embodies just such a place. I encourage anyone either living in, or passing through, Atlanta to make this a destination and to do so with an open mind and adventurous spirit.