The Barbecue Joint

Rendezvous
52 S. 2nd St.
Memphis, TN. 38103
www.hogsfly.com

Memphis. Undoubtedly several associations come immediately to mind when you hear this city’s name; a King, THE King, and barbecue. Ok, Ok, so maybe barbecue doesn’t pop instantly to the forefront of your mind as synonymous with Memphis, but it should. Home of the World Championship of Barbecue, Memphis has been a regional hotspot of barbecue fanaticism for decades. Known primarily for its vinegar based sauces, Memphis sports dozens of “cathedrals of smoke” where one can go worship at the alter of low and slow. The most famous of these spots is Rendezvous. Located in the heart of downtown Memphis, the first distinguishable characteristic is Rendezvous’ location. Tucked far back in an alley, it is easy to walk right past Rendezvous and not even know it, I did. After asking a few of Memphis’ numerous pan handlers for directions, I was finally pointed in the right direction and started off warily (no kidding, it’s a dark sketchy lookin’ alley) in search of my dinner. Even if you don’t spot the restaurant itself when you first enter the alley, you’d have to have an extremely dysfunctional olfactory system to not know you’re in the right spot. With smoke pouring out of its vents, the famous grilling pits send out a delicious beacon to hungry barbecue seekers, guiding the way to rendezvous’ front door.

Immediately apparent when you step inside the door is that you will be dining in a basement. In fact, the story goes that Charles Vergos was cleaning out this basement 60 years ago when he first found a coal chute and started making ribs. This leads us to the second noticeable and distinguishing aspect of Rendezvous; unlike most, and by most I mean all, notable rib makers, Rendezvous cooks their ribs over a coal grill as opposed to wood burning smoker. This is a mistake in my opinion.

As any diligent foodie would, I went straight for the ribs, they are after all famous. However, I simply cannot go into a barbecue house and not get pork shoulder, so I ordered a combo plate (remember my philosophy). I knew as soon as my plate showed up that I would be disappointed. You see, my idea of a good rib is a fall off the bone tender, sauce braised, and smoky baby back. I also prefer my sauce to be sweet and tangy. What I received was none of the above. Instead, Rendezvous’ ribs are dry rubbed, firm, lacking of the traditional mesquite or apple wood undertones, and served dry. The reason for the state of Rendezvous’ ribs is several fold: As previously mentioned, they are cooked over a coal fire so there is no wood to infuse that smoky flavor; Secondly, they are braised with vinegar as opposed to barbecue sauce; Finally, they are dry rubbed with a seasoned salt and pepper based rub. The result was a rib that was packed with flavor, but dry and firmly stuck to the bone. Additionally, the meat had a firm texture that was neither succulent nor tender. The pork shoulder followed suit. Although served with a conservative amount of sauce already across the top, I found the lump of meat to be similarly dry with a somewhat sawdust texture and resemblance. Needless to say, I was disappointed.

Although I was less than enthusiastic about my meal, I can see why some people love Rendezvous. With a unique style that creates such a unique final product, it is easy to see how some people might become fanatically attached, just not me. While I would recommend that anyone in Memphis for the night drop by and experience this restaurant for themselves, I would not recommend a repeat visit.